|Fresh Water Drip System|
|Most of the hatchery is on a central filter system and gets fresh water added via the fresh water reservoir. Outside of the central system are 4 125 gallon tanks, 5 29 gallon tanks and 1 20 gallon tank, which are used to house wigglers, fry and juveniles up to about dime size. At that size they are moved into the central system for final grow out. (the 20 gallon tank is my photo tank, and often houses a pair getting their picture taken) There is also a 110 gallon tank, and 1 55 gallon tank that usually house adults, special projects or quarantined new arrivals. Water changes are always time consuming and not one of my favorite pastimes. In order to reduce the need for water changes these tanks were placed on a fresh water drip system. The most common method for this is to use a tap connection with drippers controlled via irrigation valves and timers. The problem with this is that you also have to add dechlorinators, or ammonia neutralizing products depending on whether your water company adds chlorine or chloramine to the water. People with well water do not need to worry about this. Another option is to use a whole house filter that removes the chlorine or chloramine. Since I have a reservoir which has dechlor being added continuously, I decided to pump the water out of there.|
||I use a Supreme Mag -drive Model 7 in the
reservoir, pumping water through 1 inch PVC to the tanks. At the
tanks standard threaded brass air valves are used to turn the water flow
on or off. Like the air system, drip emitters are used to control
the water flow into the tanks. 1 gph drippers are used on each of
the 29 gallon fry tanks. 2 drippers totaling 5.3 gph are used on
each of the 125 gallon tanks. The 55 gallon gets 2 gph, and the
110 gallon tank gets 3.3 gph of fresh water. Additional water
changes are usually not required except when I clean out these tanks
every 4 weeks or so when fish are moved out into the next system.
An additional drip line runs into the central hatchery running over the middle rows of tanks. Any of these tanks can be converted to a drip fed system using a standard sponge filter for filtration. Water overflows into the central system via the standpipes that are in each of the tanks for normal water flow. I use this drip system on breeder pairs that are frequently allowed to parent raise their fry. These tanks are usually placed on 1/2 gph drippers. Any faster flow would require the addition of a heater in these tanks during the winter months when the fresh water supply is very cold.
Drippers are very sensitive to dirt in them so an inline filter should be used to prevent them from clogging. This one has a standard 155 mesh stainless steel screen. I find that it needs cleaning about once every week or two.
|Excess water from the main hatchery, the 110, 55, and 4 125 gallon tanks all flow into the old water sump by simple gravity. All of the hatchery tanks are equipped with standpipes to take care of the excess water and the other large tanks outside of the hatchery room are drilled through the back or side glass for a bulkhead. A simple PVC elbow and strainer take care of the overflow drain. These tanks are against a wall continuous to the main hatchery drain so were easy to plumb into there. The additional tanks outside of the central hatchery have their own sump with a pump hooked directly to the house waste system just like in the main old water sump. Overflow of these tanks is handled by an air lift over the side of the tank|